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#71 |
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Status: Standard Member
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great job!
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Misa Campo A really hot Canadian Import Model. She appears to be Asian-Caucasian. "Dude, Misa Campo is HOT!!" "Fo SHIIIIIIIIIIIZI!" |
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#72 | |
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Status: SOMB Veteran
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Location: Oregon
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Quote:
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J Gordon Skimboards - Owner [Remember: your front foot is your gas and back foot is your brake.] (speed = float) Last edited by Jim Gordon; 02-25-2009 at 08:51 AM. |
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#73 |
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Status: SOMB Veteran
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Location: Oregon
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One last thing. If you don't have any actone or you run out, rubbing alcohol works almost as good to remove epoxy as actone. That's all I use, and it's a lot cheaper.
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J Gordon Skimboards - Owner [Remember: your front foot is your gas and back foot is your brake.] (speed = float) Last edited by Jim Gordon; 02-25-2009 at 08:53 AM. |
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#74 |
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Status: Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: bear holes
Posts: 2,121
Rep Power: 12 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
ok here are some pics of it. i know it doesnt look bad now, but i know that these kind can spread very quikly and ultimately demise my skimboard! ahh!
![]() ![]() ![]()
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kooky monster purple snake |
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#75 |
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Status: Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: bear holes
Posts: 2,121
Rep Power: 12 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
sorry for the size, didnt klnow they would come out that big...when i was outside taking pictures of the board, i realized it was really nice out. see.
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kooky monster purple snake |
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#76 |
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Status: Standard Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: South fl
Posts: 312
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
very impressed and helpfull
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#77 |
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hmmm, i wouldnt dremel it, just prepare the area you are filling/glassing my sanding it. Epoxy sticks better to rougher surfaces. You could probably glass around the rail if you feel its neccesary, but fiber-filled resing would work fine. Just remember to sand the area and a little bit of the surround area for the best adhesion.
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nfarino117: Do you just use a paint pen on top of the front of your board? Or do you have to take it apart? Let Fire Fall:haha today at moes i was rolling up this guys burrito |
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#78 |
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Status: Posts Too Much
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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that's similar to the split that accompanied the nose hole on my friend's board that I fixed. What I did on that one was took a knife and dug out any sand, then filled with resin and used a clamp. See the clamping done in J-gordon's "Repairing a wood board" thread in the FAQ section. It'd be pretty much the same thing. You could even use one of the 5-min epoxy tubes for a job like that.
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"I personally don't recall any thoughts before I learned english." -harshgnar |
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#79 |
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Status: SOMB Veteran
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Location: Oregon
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If you can clean out the crack and get it to lay down flat by just pushing on it lightly, you may not need a C -clamp. A C-clamp sometimes can be a over kill, just fill the crack with a small amount of epoxy (use a knife or razor blade to work in the epoxy, and use masking tape to hold it down. Only if needed use a C-clamp.
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J Gordon Skimboards - Owner [Remember: your front foot is your gas and back foot is your brake.] (speed = float) |
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#80 |
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for stuff like that i usually just fill it with epoxy
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"Thanks to the power of denial, I'm immortal." |
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#81 |
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Status: New Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: san diego
Posts: 80
Rep Power: 5 ![]() |
that helps a lot
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#82 |
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Status: SOMB Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Oregon
Posts: 8,417
Rep Power: 27 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If you show a pix of your damaged board, it might be best not to show the logo or tell the name brand of the board.
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J Gordon Skimboards - Owner [Remember: your front foot is your gas and back foot is your brake.] (speed = float) |
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